The decor at this 'heart of Little India' place is nothing to write home about – think plastic chairs and knockabout fixtures and fittings – but this is to miss the point. Khansama Tandoori is all about great Punjabi, north Indian cuisine and terrific flavours, whether it's chicken from the tandoor, a finely spiced biryani or a succulent piece of fish. A legion of fans rave about the quality of the side dishes and the pickles (a sumptuous daal or a vegetable pakora fried fritter) which complement the multitude of curries, rather than the other way round. The spicing is unquestionably more arresting than many Indians, but it is rarely injudicious. Preprandial pickles are well made. Service is personable, always keen to go above and beyond, and the ambience often electric. Private rooms are worth noting, as too the 1am finish.