Some may remember this as Perle Noire Oyster & Grill Bar which plied its steak-focused trade on the Upper East Coast Road for the best part of 16 years. It's now changed its name but the focus is much the same. Jonathan Tan shakes the pans at this leading steakhouse that brings in cuts from all the expected key beef regions of the world – Australia, US, Argentina and New Zealand. The idea is a "contemporary twist on the classic steak restaurant" which means French-inspired mains, well-made sauces, first-rate sides and a well-selected wine list to boot.