Some people find the service at this exalted restaurant "a little cold in its earnestness" and the whole experience just a tad pretentious, but may be that's what comes with having a development kitchen where the next set of dishes are researched and taste, technique and flavour are the watchwords. Few, however, will depart having not enjoyed their tasting menu with wine pairings but it may be a case of them feeling it's not quite as remarkable as some other restaurants. We'll leave you to decide.
Strawberry and tomato salad sees pickled strawberries and Japanese tomatoes served with preserved root vegetables and oscietra caviar or spice crusted grouper dished up with fig chutney and sauce matelote (a complex, seasoned wine stew). The rare luxury of French pigeon is served with buah keluak mole, pickled onions and cacao nibs. And, for a starter a pan-seared Hokkaido scallop is dished up with pumpkin consommé and aged Kent pumpkin fondant.
There's an expert in the cellar judging by the wine list, which includes interesting beer and saké.