Paired back minimalist interiors – with a mix of designer lighting and candles – sets the tone for some contemporary dining that ticks a lot of 'must revisit' boxes. Starters, from Colin Buchan and his team, provide an explosion of flavours, built around highlights like Nduja arancini with a muhammara dip, beef tartare with smoked chipotle and roasted scallops with seaweed butter and grapefruit marmalade. Mains showcasing burgers, Iberico pork loin and hand-rolled tagliatelle and Scottish mussels may not show quite the same fireworks but this seems nitpicking when the package sees the whole being more than the sum of its parts. Indeed many will focus on the simplicity of the grilled food which might mean Wagyu entrecote or whole prawns with harissa butter. There's a nice line in artisanal cheeses which brings the attention nicely back to a succinct wine list that is packed with interest and love - think Margaret River Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Pinot or a grower Champagne from the estimable Pierre Baillette. Natural, classic and orange wines all on offer too. Open kitchen and a DJ add to the vibe.