Chef David Thien brings beautifully executed Asian food wrapped in French technique to this characterful restaurant in the tropical setting of the Botanic Gardens. Inside, elegant fixtures and fittings look like something out of the pages of House & Garden, although the house – built in 1910 and a fine example of the black and white bungalows erected in the colonial era – retains the character of its original owner EJH Corner. Natural daylight at lunch and soft, sensitive lighting at night make it equally lovely to visit, be it lunch or dinner.
Foie gras with grapefruit, apple, rice cracker and ginger at lunchtime might be supplemented by slightly more elaborate Hokkaido sea urchin with crevettes, spring peas, yuzu, pork crackling and caviar come the evening. Australian M7 wagyu beef or blue cod served with a scallop, fennel and its crispy skin at lunchtime or organic lamb with miso, cashews and Kristal caviar come the evening.
The 600-label wine list offers a mix of larger formats and half bottles, and gilds the lily perfectly. Enlightened and friendly service delivers 100%, too.