The classic French bistro template is given a contemporary spin at Customs House where the glassy modernity and the large terrace overlooking the water are welcome features. The eponymous dish is given the same focus as it is in Duxton Hill – indeed it’s the only main course on the menu – and you won't be disappointed. Nicely sauced steak frites, served with fries and fresh salad, is the staple but it's well supported by a nice line-up of starters – think snails, onion soup or thinly-sliced and properly dressed carpaccio – or puds that include crêpes Suzette or tarte tartin.
Vacherin Mont d’Or from Hervé Mons is served traditionally with steamed potatoes, cornichons and green salad, while pescatores can satiate their appetites on Holland black moules marinières. Corkage at $35 for wine worth noting.