Contemporary Korean cuisine finds no better exemplar than at this Singapore fine diner. Modern Western cooking techniques allied to Koreans heritage flavours make meals here super memorable. Chef Louis Han has refined his art with cooking stints in Lebanon and Abu Dhabi and his mastery of flame cooking is unimpeachable as evidenced in a dry-aged French pigeon grilled over charcoal and counterpointed with a side of Korean beanpaste ragu, pickled turnip and charred sweet cabbage. The signature duckgalbi sees a minced duck meat patty muddled with a juicy tteok rice cake and served perhaps with a red cabbage sauerkraut as well as gasps of approval. Hay-smoked bonito fish, dished up with pickled daikon and winter melon is another classic and this might precede bincho-tanned MS7 wagyu tenderloin. Finish with a poached pear with ginger mascarpone and yuzu makgeolli sorbet. With all this flavour it would be tempting to think Nae:um needs no further aces in the pack, but there are others too. First-rate presentation and humble but informed staff further embellish the package.