Ex-lawyer-turned-chef Woo Wai Leong checks in at this small unremarkable, riverside restaurant where his polygot team shows off Woo’s modern French cooking with Chinese and Nanyang twists to wonderful effect. The ambience is relaxed and informal but the food is both inventive and joyous: grilled squid with mala oil, lotus root and aioli, black cod with roast lala just, burnt broccoli and fennel salad or wagyu sirloin with garlic-white pepper and caramelised onion-black bean. Round it all off, if it’s on the menu, with pineapple tart, milk oolong ice cream and pink peppercorn.