Just seven tables and one Michelin star means booking a table at this intimate neighbourhood restaurant is harder than ever. The setting may not be ritzy but the food that emanates from the open kitchen is made with passion and packed with bold flavour. Chef Paul Longworth is the heartbeat of the operation and every dish is a miniature work of art. Lamb served pink with radish and grapefruit is an exercise in clean, full-flavoured simplicity, while foie gras might be dished up with a mulled wine emulsion and almond milk froth. There’s no disguising the delicate but firm flesh of John Dory, simply poached and presented with carrots and a light coconut sauce. Pigeon comes with pomegranates and turnips, while pork belly might be served with pumpkin and a tart verjus. Finish with perfectly kept cheese or an intense peanut-flavoured chocolate pud.
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