Banging gastronomic retreat where the talking is done on the plate rather than by any newfangled interior design. Australian chef Drew Nocente's kitchen ticks all the boxes for sustainability and minimum waste – this is no-holds-barred nose to tail cookery – but it's his ability to extract flavour from even the most humble of ingredients that has fans queuing up for more. Central to the menu's focus and creativity is the use of forgotten parts, from bone to skin, protein to innards which, coupled with elements of smoking, curing, pickling and grilling, delivery flavour notes of rare expression. A meaty piece of turbot might come with liver vin jaune and smoked bone broth with bushi (dehydrated fish flakes) and garum (fermented fish sauce) to gild the lilly. Snow crab is made extra delicious with radish and buttermilk, while many swear by Drew's selection of house cured charcuterie which shows off his Italian roots. To finish there's a superb dark chocolate and kumquat dish or sourdough with artisanal cheese which will send you to heaven and back.