This 2023 incarnation of a Japanese restaurant on Amoy Street hits all the familiar notes that are typical of an owner-managed kaiseki restaurant: simple, charming and homely in a pleasant townhouse setting, full of integrity too. Expect friendly and attentive staff, a calm atmosphere and ingredients that will inveigle your palate with freshness and seasonality. The Yoshino cypress counter, pleasantly offset by inoffensive wickerwork and calligraphy, seats up to 16 people who come to enjoy a 12-course line-up of dishes and the knife skills of the chef. Don’t miss their exquisite dashi broth which provides a vehicle for the highest quality fish and meat – think Spanish mackerel tuna, Oigawa eel or sea urchin served with somen noodles. Unimpeachable A5 wagyu might be washed down by a junmai daiginjo or perhaps a bottle of Ridge Monte Bello or Calon Ségur from a well-selected list.