A simple elegant homage to the classic French brasserie, decked out in a rollcall of cliché brasserie fittings such as leather banquettes and wooden bistro chairs, glass globe lighting and art deco lampshades, and old black and white pictures hung on sepia-tinted walls. There’s a quiet professional assurance about the place and the same can be said for the food. The classic menu offers a rundown of richly authentic Gallic greatest hits: trenchant home made paté, gravalax, escargots seaped in garlic butter, traditional hot pot and may be a deeply reduced coq au vin. There’s a good offering of fish, too, and of course a trolley groaning with well-kept cheese. Brasserie Gavroche has a deservedly loyal following which helps it to shrug off the local competition with Gallic nonchalance.